Saturday, April 2, 2011

South Beach, Dar es Salaam: March 26, 2011

On Saturday morning, I joined the Roots and Shoots trip to south beach, where a dozen IST students would be planting mangrove trees to assist the reforestation project of a small coastal community outside of Dar es Salaam. Community service is a large part of the extracurricular program here, and Roots and Shoots was founded by Jane Goodall, who did much of her primate research in Gombe Stream National Park in remote western Tanzania. Given that I haven't done much service work in Tanzania, I figured it would be good to get involved and learn more about the mangroves, perhaps seeing a few birds in the process. Planting mangroves is fairly painless, as you simply have to transplant seedlings from deep inside the dense forest to the edge. We stalked around in the mud for a few hours pulling up shoots and replanting them in small holes, being careful not to damage the roots. The students seemed to enjoy the labor too, clowning around in the rain as several squalls broke up the intensely sunny weather.

Having planted almost a square kilometer of mangroves, with approximately nine mangroves per square meter, we made our way to Kim's Beach for a swim before returning to Dar. Coastal Tanzania can seem a timeless place as the ancient dhows sail under the eternally blue sky day after day without variation. The mangroves are quickly being cleared though for their hard wood as well as to make way for shrimp farms, and the coastal forests are rapidly being converted to charcoal for use in towns and cities as cooking fuel. Even the sea itself is fast being depleted as fishermen continue to fish with dynamite and blast the coral reefs into oblivion. In fact, on our way to the mangroves we walked through a village where two men were preparing plastic water bottles filled with ammonium sulfate. At any rate, it was good to get a few trees planted with the students and to consider some of the issues that aid and development workers wrestle with every day here in Tanzania.

Notable birds seen: Pied Kingfisher, Levaillant's Cuckoo.

Dar es Salaam, South Beach: March 19, 2011

Aimee and I spent her last weekend in Tanzania relaxing at Ras Kutani, a lovely hotel along the beach south of Dar es Salaam. She's now in Washington D.C. training for her new career while I'm staying here unitl June to finish out the academic year at the International School of Tanganyika. It's exciting to wonder where we'll be living, and hopefully birding, next year, but I'm also disappointed to leave East Africa behind after less than twelve months. With little time remaining, I still need to visit the Usambara Mountains, a spectacular and isolated pair of coastal ranges with more than a few endemic bird species. I'd like to go on safari a few more times too, including a visit to the massive and diverse Ruaha National Park in southern Tanzania. I have some vacation time coming up soon, so hopefully I'll be able to add substantially to my country list before rejoining Aimee someplace new.

Regarding our stay in south beach, it was terrific, but we did have an unpleasant experience on the hotel's nature trail, which passes through coastal scrub and riverine forest. Having noted several good birds, including the Trumpeter Hornbill, Yellow-Breasted Apalis, and Giant Kingfisher, I suddenly fell through a rotten board on a footbridge. One moment I was walking quietly through the forest, and the next moment I was in agony, swinging precariously above a ravine. Unfortunately, I slammed my camera against the bridge, and it appears as if the individual lenses in my telephoto lens are out of alignment, which is giving the autofocus fits. Although I have another lens, it seems that my future photographs of Tanzania will be of much lower quality and detail than previous (I've edited these two much more than usual). As for me, I'm still a little banged up with bruised ribs and a hyperextended big toe. Aimee and I did see a few other nice birds afterward, including a female Greater Honeyguide, my first species seen of this cryptic family.

Notable birds seen: African Fish Eagle, Palm-Nut Vulture, Hamerkop, Greater Crested Tern, Giant Kingfisher, Malachite Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Trumpeter Hornbill, Greater Honeyguide, Yellow-Breasted Apalis, Olive Sunbird.