Sunday, June 27, 2010

Reserva Las Gralarias: June 26, 2010

A short visit to Reserva Las Gralarias was a twitch in the truest sense of the term. An active nest of the Hoary Puffleg had recently been found along one of the reserve's trails, so I simply had to stop by for my first looks at this difficult Choco endemic hummingbird, which resides in dark forested ravines and hardly ever visits feeders. Interestingly enough, this year in January the puffleg was regularly seen at one of the reserve's feeder stations that is heavily surrounded by vegetation, although I neglected to see it myself, as the twitch didn't seem as urgent as it does now that I have less than two weeks left in Ecuador.

The nest itself is cup-shaped and hanging from an exposed fern growing right along the trail. When I first arrived on site, the female was not on the nest, and when she arrived went through a noisy distraction act, perching nearby and calling loudly to draw my attention away from the location. After taking in quick but good looks at this subtle puffleg, which appears a little like a hermit with its tail curled inwards in flight, I retreated for a few minutes. Returning stealthily to the nest area, I observed the female seated on top of the nest, not inside, where one downy nestling lay. It's difficult to say whether this brood will be reared successfully (there were originally two eggs), but I'm confident I didn't hurt its chances with my observations.

Notable birds seen: Velvet-Purple Coronet, Hoary Puffleg, Spotted Barbtail, Flame-Faced Tanager.

Mashpi: June 26, 2010

Mashpi is a recently popularized site in the northwestern foothills that is quickly growing renowned for its impressive collection of Choco endemic bird species. The wet mossy forest along the roads in the area boasts Moss-Backed Tanager, Pacific Tuftedcheek, Orange-Breasted Fruiteater, Black Solitaire, Glistening-Green Tanager, Indigo Flowerpiercer, and Choco Vireo, the latter just discovered at the site by guide DuĊĦan M. Brinkhuizen. Indeed, the news of the vireo, which is a very rare and endangered species and one of the most difficult of the Choco endemics to see in Ecuador, is bound to increase the site's fame even further, especially considering its proximity to Mindo (the vireo is known from one other remote site in Ecuador in Esmeraldas Province).

With little time left in Ecuador, I wanted to try for a few more unseen Choco endemics myself, including the vireo, of course, but also the Black Solitaire and a few hypothetical species to the area, such as Star-Chested Treerunner, Yellow-Green Bush-Tanager, and Purplish-Mantled Tanager. After taking Aimee to the airport in Quito for her own departure on an early-morning flight, I drove down to the site and shortly was observing a pair of Moss-Backed Tanagers at close range feeding on ants crawling along the roadside. Overhead, a pair of gorgeous Toucan Barbets looked on as I photographed the feeding birds, which were behaving more like flycatchers than tanagers. Further down the road that leads to the new reserve, I encountered a terrific mixed flock with both Glistening-Green Tanager and Orange-Breasted Fruiteater as well as Strong-Billed Woodcreeper and Smoky-Brown Woodpecker.

Approaching the section of the road where Dusan found the vireo, I laughed at my chances of actually finding the bird myself, as I was without playback and unfamiliar with the bird's habits and behavior. Happily, I met guide and conservationist Alejandro Solano along the road, who had just seen the vireo himself, and he led me exactly to the spot where we found the bird high in the canopy along the roadside. Looking and sounding like the common Brown-Capped Vireo, the bird behaved differently, defending its area territorially as mixed flocks moved through and staying behind as they left and growing quiet again. While it wasn't a spectacular sighting, it's always inspiring and poignant to witness an endangered species, and I'm grateful to Dusan and Alejandro for sharing their knowledge and observations.

Notable birds seen: Blue-Fronted Parrotlet, Purple-Bibbed Whitetip, Wedge-Billed Hummingbird, Brown Inca, Golden-Headed Quetzal, Toucan Barbet, Crimson-Rumped Toucanet, Smoky-Brown Woodpecker, Golden-Olive Woodpecker, Strong-Billed Woodcreeper, Pacific Tuftedcheek, Tawny-Breasted Flycatcher, Orange-Breasted Fruiteater, Choco Vireo, Andean Solitaire, Choco Warbler, Swallow Tanager, Glistening-Green Tanager, Moss-Backed Tanager, Black-Chinned Mountain-Tanager, Ochre-Breasted Tanager, Yellow-Throated Bush-Tanager, Black-Winged Saltator.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Refugio Paz de los Aves: June 6, 2010

My third trip to Refugio Paz de los Aves was definitely the most spectacular. Having already seen all four species of antpitta that Angel Paz has successfully habituated, I was hoping instead to located the Cloud-Forest Pygmy-Owl, a Choco endemic that I've been chasing the last few months that is seen occasionally on his property. Like other pygmy-owls, this species is mostly diurnal and moves about unpredictably, often associating with mixed flocks as it's bombarded by hummingbirds, euphonias, and other small birds that it predates upon. Also like other pygmy-owls, it has a highly distinctive and repetitive call, a series of pu-pu's that can last upwards of a minute. When I called Angel on Saturday night from Mindo, he reported that the pygmy-owl had been seen that morning calling frequently right near the fruit feeders, so Aimee and I decided to pay him one last visit.

There was one other group of birders there, guided by Vinicio Perez of Birdwatchers' House in Mindo. Angel directed them to the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek while we explored the trails in search of the pygmy-owl. Just as he locates the antpittas, Angel would whistle the call at various points along the trails, hoping for a response (he hasn't named the owl yet like he's named the individual antpittas, such as Maria, Willy, and Susan). Getting no response, we decided to wait out the early morning and try again around 8:30am, which he explained was a more common time to hear the pygmy-owl vocalize. So, Aimee and I next spent an incredible half hour at the lek, watching two male Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks playfully chase each other in front of the viewing blind.

We returned to walking the trails with Angel afterward, continuing our search for the pygmy-owl as well as the Dark-Backed Wood-Quail, another very difficult Choco endemic that appears regularly at the site. Again not getting a response, Angel surprised me when he asked me to use playback on several occasions, breaking his own strict rules about the use of playback on his reserve. Perhaps these rules only apply to more territorial birds like antpittas, or perhaps he just really wanted to please us. Regardless, we still failed to get a response as the morning grew later; however, we did meet Susan, a female Moustached Antpitta, who responded quickly to some hand-tossed worms alongside the upper trail.

We descended back to the new fruit feeders that Angel and his brother built a few months ago, just in time for a fantastic gathering of birds (the old fruit feeders attracted too many Sickle-Winged Guans, which in turn disturbed the nearby Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek). Black-Chinned Mountain-Tanagers and Toucan Barbets aggressively fed on the bananas, some even perching on the hand of Vinicio Perez to feed, while Dark-Backed Wood-Quails and White-Throated Quail-Doves skulked along the ground picking up the left overs. Then a pair of Crimson-Rumped Toucanets and a group of Blue-Winged Mountain-Tanagers came in, as cameras continued to click away, capturing this splendid show, truly one of the best natural spectacles in Ecuador.

After getting an eyeful of the wood-quail, we dropped back down the trail to try for the pygmy-owl again, this time finally getting a response from a tree just overhead, where a mixed flock was busy foraging about. With a bit more effort, we finally located the Cloud-Forest Pygmy-Owl, stolidly perched on an open branch as Fawn-Breasted Brilliants and Slate-Throated Whitestarts mobbed it from above. Thrilled with our luck, we all patted each other on the back and made our way up the hill for breakfast, a feast of bolones and empanadas. On the way, we ran into Rodrigo, Angel's brother, who had located the Ochre-Breasted Antpitta that Angel has named Shakira. This diminutive grallaricula has a distinctive bobbing display that it makes as it calls, shaking its body much like the popular Colombian singer.

Notable birds seen: Dark-Backed Wood-Quail, Cloud-Forest Pygmy-Owl, Empress Brilliant, Velvet-Purple Coronet, Toucan Barbet, Red-Headed Barbet, Crimson-Rumped Toucanet, Tyrannine Woodcreeper, Moustached Antpitta, Ochre-Breasted Antpitta, Olivaceous Piha, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Black-Chinned Mountain Tanager, Golden-Naped Tanager.

Mindo: June 5 , 2010

Having dropped off the car with its new owner, Aimee and I continued on by bus to Mindo for the rest of the weekend, looking to finally ride the famous zip lines there, as well as to do a little birding. Sadly, good birding can only be found increasingly far away from town as it grows steadily both in population and popularity with tourists from Quito. Now, the once famous dirt road leading up to the Mindo-Nambillo Reserve is busy during the weekends with car and lorry traffic, and regional specialties like the Cloud-Forest Pygmy-Owl are rarely seen (I photographed this individual the following morning well outside Mindo at Refugio Pas de los Aves). An early morning or late afternoon along the road could still yield some decent birds though, such as the White-Throated Spadebill we found calling vigorously in the undergrowth and raising its yellow-feathered crest.

Notable birds seen: White-Capped Dipper, Crimson-Rumped Toucanet, White-Throated Spadebill, Torrent Tyrannulet, Guira Tanager, Golden-Naped Tanager.

Old Nono-Mindo Road: June 5, 2010

Descending the northwest slope of Volcan Pichincha from Yanacocha Reserve, Aimee and I took our faithful Toyota Landcruiser on a final expedition, winding along the old Nono-Mindo Road towards the Tandayapa Valley. We had missed the Black-Breasted Puffleg at Yanacocha earlier in the morning but decided to stop by Verdecocha Reserve, where it has also been observed. Unfortunately, we learned at the entrance gate that visits are only by reservation and that the rare hummingbird is hardly ever seen at the feeders and only occasionally found further up in the reserve. Cruising along the Alambi River, we stopped periodically to try for the Beautiful Jay (the lower part of this road passes through excellent temperate forest now protected as part of the Ecoruta, or Paseo del Quinde). Almost no birds were calling this late in the morning, much less the distinctive Beautiful Jay, but we did find a pair of dapper White-Capped Dippers feeding in the river.

Notable birds seen: White-Capped Dipper.

Yanacocha Reserve: June 5, 2010

In my last weekend in Ecuador with my own transport, I chose to visit Yanacocha Reserve one last time in search of the Black-Breasted Puffleg, perhaps the rarest hummingbird in the world. Although this country endemic is supposed to be present at the reserve during the months of May through July, it hasn't been observed yet this year, nor did Aimee and I find it on Saturday morning. We found very little in fact, as intense sun and high winds buffeted the elfin forest, driving birds into the understory. After spending an hour fruitlessly waiting at the hummingbird feeders, we decided to head down slope along the old Nono-Mindo Road. (The Giant Conebill pictured here is on the bird list for the reserve, although I've never seen it at this site myself.)

Notable birds seen: Black-Chested Buzzard-Eagle, Golden-Breasted Puffleg, Purple-Mantled Thornbill, Mountain Velvetbreast, Sword-Billed Hummingbird, Great Sapphirewing, Pearled Treerunner, White-Throated Tyrannulet, Superciliaried Hemispingus, Scarlet-Bellied Mountain-Tanager.